Nine Neighborhood Roman Trattorias
These historic, family-run trattorias offer traditional dishes from the Roman cooking tradition: a tradition of the territory, ‘poor’, essential, simple and proud, which is based on ingredients coming from farming and rural tradition. Among the highlights of Roman cuisine are pasta dishes like the Grigia (with bacon and cheese), forefather of other more famous recipes, the Amatriciana, the Carbonara and the Cacio e Pepe, as well as other pasta dishes prepared with vegetables (chickpeas, broccoli, beans and potatoes). Essential ingredient of meat dishes is the quinto quarto (the fifth quarterbutcher’s leftovers) –tail, suckling veal entrails, suckling lamb, offal, tripe and sweetbreads- traditionally accompanied by seasonal vegetables.
> Sora Margherita
A: 30,Piazza delle Cinque Scole; Tel#: 06 6874216.Closed on Saturdays and Sundays.
For 12 years Lucia Ziroli has been running this small and simple trattoria, built in 1927 in the heart of the Roman Ghetto. Paper tablecloths and a lot of comments and write-ups on the walls. On the menu, only dishes of the Roman (also Jewish) cooking tradition. Not to be missed are all the dishes prepared with fresh Ricotta cheese, the Chicken with Peppers and the classic Veal Meatballs. On Summer, a must are the Aubergine Parmigiana and all deep-fried dishes. Restricted selection of wines from Lazio and Velletri wine from cask.
> Da Armando al Pantheon
A: 31, Salita dé Crescenzi; Tel#: 06 68803034.
In 1961, Armando Gargioli opened this small trattoria just a few steps from the Pantheon. Today, Armando’s sons Claudio and Fabrizio and nephews Fabiana and Mario offer customers freshly made dishes and an excellent service. On the menu, classic first courses made with Martelli pasta, cut with bronze dies, and among the second courses: the Veal Saltimbocca, the Spelt Dumplings and the Beef ‘Picchiapò’ style. Some old recipes that remind to the imperial cook Apicious are the Guinea-Fowl with Mushrooms and the Duck with Prunes.
A: 4, Via del Leone; Tel#: 06 6832100. Closed on Sundays.
The two brothers Giacomo and Grazia Lo Bianco have been managing, together with Chef Giovanni Fabbrotti, this famous trattoria for over 20 years. Fish courses are proposed only during Summer months. A wonderful cellar offers over 700 Italian wines.
> Hosteria da Pietro
A: 18, Via di Gesù e Maria; Tel#: 063208816. Closed on Sundays.
Just a few steps from Piazza di Spagna you will find this pleasant, informal trattoria. A long mirror is located in the main hall, with all the comments by the most famous guests on it. Its young owner Pietro Massotti always welcomes customers warmly. The outside tables are available only in the evening. It offers all the dishes of the Roman tradition, including an exquisite Vignarola (Roman Spring Vegetables). Very delicious desserts, made by Mr. Masotti’s mother-in-law. The cellar is home to rare Venetian wines, like Dal Forno and Quintarelli.
> Checco er Carettiere
A: 10-13, Via Benedetta; Tel#: 06 5817018, or 06 5800985.
Located in the Trastevere district, this trattoria/tavern was created by Checcoin 1935, and it is currently managed by Checco’s granddaughters Assunta Porcelli –known as Susy- Stefania and Laura. Before, there was only a tavern, and people used to come there to drink wine bringing some food with them. Today, it is made up of a small osteria of ancient origin and a more elegant and expensive restaurant, whose walls are covered with old pictures. The osteria still has old beams and frescoes, tablecloths in straw paper, an informal service and a cheaper daily menu.
>Trattoria da Augusto
A: 15, Piazza Dé Renzi; Tel#: 06 5803798. Closed on Saturday evenings and on Sundays.
In this small trattoria, located in this silent little square in Trastevere since 1954 and managed by Sandro and Anna Silvestri, is not possible to reserve a table. Simple environment, friendly atmosphere, paper tablecloths and a quick service. Table D’hote menu with Beef Stew, Beef Braised and Chicken Roman Style.
> Checchino dal 1887
A: 30, Via di Monte Testaccio; Tel#: 06 5743816 or 06 5746318. Closed on Sunday evenings and on Mondays.
A large trattoria –once inn with kitchen service- in the very heart of the Testaccio district that has been managed by the Mariani family for 127 years. Checchino’s three children still offer their guests the ‘Padellotto, the Ox with Meat Sauce and the Roman Oxtail Stew, invented by their great-grandmother in 1890. A wide cellar in Mount dei Cocci, with over 400 Italian and French labels.
> Sora Lella
A: 16,Via di Ponte Quattro Capi; Tel#: 06 6861601
In 1959, multi-awarded Roman actress and Chef Elena Fabrizi, also known as Sora Lella, opened this trattoria on Tiber Island. Managed by her son Aldo and then by her nephews Mauro, Renato, Elena and Simone, it still offers the genuine dishes of Roman cooking tradition, prepared with DOP, uncontaminated products from Lazio. Three internal rooms with the walls covered with black and white photos and an amazing view on the river Tevere. Old recipes like the Pasta with Broccoli and Skate or the Homemade Tonnarelli ‘Cuccagna’ Style, with 16 secret ingredients. Master ice maker Renato proposes special ice cream Flavors, like the Criollo Chocolate with Candied Orange Peel, the 80% Chocolate with Cinchona Barolo or a 75% Ricotta with sour cherries. The cellar hosts 500 Italian wines.
> Da Bucatino
A: 84/86, Via Luca della Robbia; Tel#: 06 5746886. Closed on Mondays.
Since 1980, this big Roman trattoria in the heart of the Testaccio district has been managed by Paolo Di Stefano and the other member of his family. They use to serve Bucatini with a bib that has the words: “If an illness makes you feel in bits, just come to Testaccio to eat”. Pizza is available only at dinner. A very suggestive dish is the Carretto delle Svogliature, with seasonal vegetables. Not to be missed are the special Coconut Tiramisu and the Millefoglie Crumble. The cellar is home to over 300 wines, divided per region.