2014 A&B Guide to Amalfi ristoranti…
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From Da Gemma in Amalfi to Don Alfonso in Sant’ Agata, the following is a listing of A&B favorite dining spots along Amalfi Coast. There are dozens more but we chose the our standbys as well as most popular. We have included fine dining Michelin rated spots, several gelato shops as well as a few proverbial ‘hole in the wall’ places like Naples’ Da Dora.
Here are our Top 34 Amalfi Coast Ristoranti / A&B Favorites (alpha by town):
1. Da Gemma (Amalfi)
Via Frá Gerardo Sasso, 11; Amalfi; Tel #: 089 871 345 Closed: Wed
Terrace over the city’s square. Informal restaurant; famous for fish soups. Frommer’s review: “This upscale yet relaxed restaurant has been serving customers for over a century and has racked up sheaves of reviews attesting to its quality. One of the most famous specialties is paccheri. con gamberetti (thick pasta tubes with shrimp). Zuppa di pesce (fish stew), which comes in a two-person portion, is another winner. Don’t forget to try the typical Amalfitana side dish known as ciambotta (a mix of sautéed potatoes, peppers, and eggplant). Half portions are available for children.”
2. Eolo Ristorante (Amalfi)
Via Pantaleone Comite,3; Tel #: 089-871241; www.eoloamalfi.it; email@example.com.
The best fine-dining restaurant in Amalfi some would say. Due to the combination of superb service, fantastic food, a marvelous view, and affordability. The decor is excellent. the big crusty bread and cheese trays with the most wonderful local selections laid out at the entry are the first clue. The tables overlook the town. Reservations required.
3. La Caravella (Amalfi)
Via Matteo Camera, 12; Tel #: 089 871 029; www.ristorantelacaravella.it; firstname.lastname@example.org
This restaurant has probably the best food, but the roadside location lets it down. Chef Antonio Dipino. Hotel concierge can show how to get there. La Caravella was first opened in 1959, and is today one of the most important and well-known restaurant in the south of Italy. Situated in the centre of the city, where the history of the Maritime Republic can be felt. It is in fact situated next to the Ancient Arsenals, in a building of the 1100, which was the home of the Piccolomini family, feudatories of the Duchy of Amalfi. Fodor’s review: “No wonder this is considered the most romantic restaurant in Amalfi, with lace-covered tables, ciuccio (donkey) ceramics, tall candles, and fresh floral bouquets in salons graced with frescoes and marble floors. Opened in 1959, it became the first in Southern Italy to earn a Michelin star in 1966, and once drew a gilded guest list that included such fans as Andy Warhol and Federico Fellini. The menu maintains dishes favored 50 years ago: picture slices of fish grilled in lemon leaves marinated with an almond and wild fennel sauce. A tasting menu is available, but don’t miss the antipasti.
4. Trattoria Da Ciccio Cielo Mare e Terra (Amalfi)
Via Giovanni Agustariccio 21: Tel #: 089831265; http://www.ristorantedaciccio.com; email@example.com.
Family run by Francesco, with his wife Marinella, who takes care of the desserts, and his sons, Giuseppe sommelier, Marco in the kitchen and Stefano at the reception. Da Ciccio, about 5-7 minutes from Amalfi center. A Top Ten restaurant for area. The restaurant is built on a precipice overlooking the Mediterranean and above the home of Sophia Loren. Great views over the Amalfi coast, excellent seafood and pasta, not too touristy, yet came at reasonable prices
5. PORTO SALVO Gelateria (Amalfi)
Piazza Duomo; Tel #: 089 872 445 Best gelato in Amalfi. Candied almond and wild strawberry are two signature flavors, but Porto Salvo’s workshop makes all the standard creams and fresh fruit flavors every day.
6. ‘a Paranza (in Atrani)
Address: Via Dragone 1-2, Atrani; Tel#: 089-871840089-871840; www.ristoranteparanza.com . Credit cards accepted. Reservations recommended. Hours: Wed-Mon 12:30-3pm and 7:30-11:30pm (also Tues in summer)
Frommer’s review: “This simple trattoria is our favorite restaurant in the area. Popular for its well-prepared seafood and moderate prices, it is hidden away off the main street of Atrani — the village adjacent to Amalfi to the east — and does not have sea views or an outside terrace, but the wonderful food makes up for this. The traditional cuisine focuses on the best local ingredients. We recommend starting off with the house antipasti (almost a meal in itself) but other standouts include delicious scialatielli alla paranza (homemade pasta with small fish), polipetti in cassuola (baby octopus stewed in a terra-cotta pot), or scampi al limone (prawns in lemon sauce). Do not miss the homemade desserts such as the pear and ricotta tart. The wine list is short but includes excellent local labels.
7. Il Riccio Beach Club & Bar (Anacapri)
ADDRESS: Via Gradola, 4-6 Località Grotta Azzurra, 80071 ANACAPRI.
firstname.lastname@example.org; Tel # +39 0818371380.
Tucked between the rock and the sea, just a few steps away from the famed Blue Grotto, one comes across Il Riccio, the new restaurant and beach club of the Capri Palace Hotel & Spa. After extensive refurbishments of the historic Add’O Riccio, the restaurant once cherished by Aristotle Onassis, the new Riccio’s cuisine and décor are a tribute to the Mediterranean.
The restaurant is open every day for lunch from 12.00pm to 4pm; and for dinner from Thursdays to Sundays from 8pm to 11pm.
8. La Capannina – Capri
Via Le Botteghe, 12bis/14; Tel # +39081 8370732; Fax +39081 8376990; Capannina@capri.it .
The restaurant ” La Capannina ” is located 100 meters from the popular Piazzetta di Capri and over the years it has become a regular destination for the island’s elite clientele. For decades one of Capri’s most celebrity-haunted restaurants, La Capannina is near the busy social hub of the Piazzetta, and the discreet flower-decked covered veranda is ideal for dining by candlelight—or you can join the regulars in the outdoor courtyard. Specialties, aside from an authentic Capri wine with the house label, are ravioli capresi and linguine con lo scorfano (flat spaghetti with scorpion fish), squid stuffed with caciotta cheese and marjoram, and an exquisite “Pezzogna” (sea bream cooked whole in a copper casserole, topped with a layer of potatoes). The wine cellar is open for perusal, and they’re nearby gourmet store ships worldwide. The small late-night bar across the side alleyway is under the same ownership.
9. La Colombaia (in the famed Hotel Quisisana)
Via Cammerelle, 2; Tel #: 081-8370844.
Just steps away from the Piazzetta, is the site of the Grand Hotel Quisisana, a historic establishment and flagship of the Italian hotel industry, since 1845. Movie stars, royals, politicians and heads of state have all chosen this luxury resort for their vacation on the Island of Capri, confirming the Quisisana as one of the world’s most exclusive resorts. La Colombaia is the Hotel Quisisana’s poolside restaurant. Typical cuisine of Capri and the Campagna region, fresh fish, grilled meats, and authentic Neapolitan pizza , cooked in a traditional wood burning oven. The perfect spot in which to enjoy a relaxing working lunch overlooking the park or a leisurely meal with friends by the pool.
10. La Pergola (Capri)
Via Traversa Lo Palazzo, 2; Tel #: 39.081.8377414; Fax: 39.081.837.4831; Email: email@example.com
From its large terrace with a charming garden and lemon grove, La Pergola offers a magnificent view of the Bay of Naples, Vesuvius and the famous Piazzetta. In addition to the specialties made with ingredients from the restaurant’s own vegetable garden, and those created alla marinara style using only the freshest of seafood, La Pergola is also known for its home-made pasta and delicious lemon soufflés.
11. Acqua Pazza (Cetara)
Via Garibaldi 38, Cetara, 84010; Tel # 089/261606; www.acquapazza.it
Credit cards accepted Closed: Closed on Mon. mid-Oct.-mid-Mar.
“Locals along this part of the coast rave about this tiny restaurant. On the main street, it has a modest environment—a spare interior with a few tables—but its raison d’être is remarkably fresh seafood, with the spaghetti with colatura di alici also a specialty here. This is a three-minute stroll from the harbor. – Fodor’s
12. Pizzeria di Matteo- Napoli
94 Via Tribunali; Tel # 081.455.262.
One of the most popular pizzerias in a town filled with great pizza. Call ahead to reserve a table. No credit cards.
13. La Trianon da Ciro- Napoli
Via Pietro Coletta, 46; Tel # 081 5539426.
A historic pizzeria with 30 kinds of pizza. No credit cards.
14. L’Antica Pizzeria da Michele – Napoli
Via Cesare Sersale 1/3; Tel # 081.553.9204
The most traditional of Naples” pizzerias, long wait for two choices Margherita and Marinara. No credit cards.
15. Scaturchio (great pastry!) – Napoli
Via Pizza San Domenico; Tel# 081 5516944
Hours: Wed-Mon 7:30am-9:30pm
Ever since 1921, Zeppole (cream doughnuts), Cannoli (Sicilian specialties based on ricotta, chocolate chips and candied fruits), Ministerial (chocolate and cream medallion with liqueur) and Baba have been pulling in the crowds in this café-store. Large terrace on the square.
16. Da Dora – Napoli
Via Ferdinando Palasciano, 30; Tel#: 081-68-05-19).
A favorite hideaway of Giorgio Armani. For some of the freshest seafood in town, there is Da Dora Tucked away on a deserted street, Dora looks like another run-of-the-mill trattoria, with its bright lighting, old paintings and blue-and-white checkered tiles. But this unassuming restaurant is always packed with local fish lovers. Try the catch of the day (22 euros per kilo), gently roasted with olive oil, salt and lemon and served with potatoes. The spaghetti alle vongole (19 euros) offers a delicious contrast of tender clams and al dente pasta. Pair your seafood with a crisp Falanghina.
17. La Tagliata (outskirts of Positano, Montepertuso sect.) – Positano
Via Tagliata, 22, Località Montepertuso; Tel #: 089 875872
This is a small family-owned trattoria, at the very top of a steep hill above Positano. A favorite of the local Amalfitani. Instead of ordering off the menu let Peppino (the owner’s son) to bring out what he thinks is best. Strongly recommended! firstname.lastname@example.org
18. Lo Guarracino (Positano)
Via Positanesi d’America 12, between Spiaggia Grande and Spiaggia Fornillo Tel # 089/875794; www.loguarracino.net This arbor-covered, perched-on-a-cleft aerie is about the most idyllic place to enjoy your lemon pasta and glass of vino … watch the yachts come and go. Set a few steps above Positano’s prettiest seaside path, the terrace vista takes in the cliffs, the sea, Li Galli islands, Spiaggia Fornillo, and Torre Clavel. … fine fish specialties are among the big pluses….arbor section of the restaurant is home to a pizzeria oven (adorned with an icon of Saint Francesco di Paola, patron saint of bakers, renamed here Saint Pizza).
19. La Cambusa (Positano)
Piazza Amerigo Vespucci 4; Tel #: 089/875432. Linguine with mussels and fresh fish with potatoes and tomato sauce are among the favorites. Owners Baldo and Danielle are well known around town for maintaining high standards even during the hectic summer season. The outdoor dining terrace holds pride of place directly above the entrance to the Spiaggia Grande.
20. La Taverna del Leone (Positano)
Via Laurito 43, Amalfi Dr., between Positano and Vettica Maggiore; Tel #875474
“A crowd ranging from Ferrari owners to local fishermen is drawn to this rustic, convivial trattoria because of the pizza—reputedly the best around (evenings only). You can choose from a variety of antipasti and creative pizza toppings, or go for a big meal topped off with a cold beer or glass of local wine, in a lusty roadhouse setting where folks mingle happily and noisily. – Fodor’s
21. Lo Guarracino – Positano
12 Via Positanesi d’America; Tel#: 08 987-5794; http://www.loguarracino.net
Though the seafood is fresh and expertly prepared and the pizzas from the brick oven are quite good, you don’t really come here for the fairly standard cuisine. You come for the über-romantic setting: a shaded, breeze-kissed terrace draped in bougainvillea and overlooking pristine Mediterranean waters. It’s reached via an equally romantic cliff-side path that winds from Positano toward the sleepy satellite hamlet of Fornillo. Insider Tip: Book ahead for a table by the railing for the best sight lines—past the protected cove bobbing with fishing boats and a Saracenic watchtower to the Li Galli Islands beyond.
22. Ristorante President (Pompeii)
Piazza Schettini 12, Pompeii, 80045; Tel # 081/8507245
Credit cards accepted Closed: Closed Mon. Nov.-Mar.
Run by the Gramaglia brother-and-sister team …. For something different, try the aragosta ubriacata (“drunken” lobster cooked in white wine) accompanied by some imaginative side dishes, likes foglie di zucca in agrodolce (sweet-and-sour pumpkin strips). Beautiful presentation, impeccable service, and excellent value all add up to a stellar meal.
23. Bar Pasticceria la Zagara – Positano
8/10 Via Mulini; Tel#: 08-987-5964; Email: email@example.com.
Built into a cliff overlooking the Tyrrhenian Sea, this full-service bar has a bright, simple interior and an outdoor wooden terrace, shaded by a canopy of thick-green vines. Set amid orange and lemon groves, the terrace provides panoramic views of the Gulf of Salerno and the majolica dome of the Chiesa Madre (Mother Church). In addition to classic cocktails like the Bellini, the bar also serves pizzas, fresh salads, homemade gelato, and pastries such as the delizia al limone (sponge cake with lemon Chantilly cream). During summertime, it hosts live music ranging from traditional Neapolitan to upbeat disco. Insider Tip: Menu prices vary depending on where you sit (counter, table, or terrace), so keep that in mind when you arrive.
24. ROSSELLINI’S (Ravelllo / Palazzo Avino Hotel)
Via San Giovanni del Toro 28; Tel#: 089 818 181
Best view on Amalfi Coast. Fine dining, jacket required. Enjoy creations by Chef Pino Lavarro. A candle light dinner served in a two Michelin stars restaurant Rossellini’s. firstname.lastname@example.org.
25. Cumpa Cosima – Ravello
Via Roma, 44 – Ravello; Tel#: 089 857156. Call ahead for reservation. A very well known ‘institution. Trattoria e pizzeria. According to Fodor’s: “Lustier-looking than most Ravello spots, Cumpa’ Cosimo is run devotedly by Netta Bottone, who tours the tables to ensure her clients are content. Her family has owned this cantina for 75 of its 300-plus years, and she has been cooking under the arched ceiling for more than 60 of them. You can’t miss with any of the classic Ravellian dishes. A favorite (share it—it’s huge) is a misto of whatever homemade pasta inspires her, served with a fresh, fragrant pesto. Meats, from Netta’s own butcher shop next door, are generally excellent and local wines ease it all down gently. The funghi porcini mushroom starter is delicious and the house cheesecake or homemade gelato provide a luscious ending.
26. Ristorante Bagni Delfino (Sorrento)
ADDRESS: Via marina grande, 216, 80067 Sorrento, Italy
TEL#: 081 8782038; www.ristorantebagnidelfino.com
Rated #1 of 164 Sorrento restaurants according to TripAdvisor; but this is over stated; very good but not great! Beautiful setting over the water with great views; perfectly placed right by the sea with views across Naples bay and Vesuvius. Go for dinner…watch the sunset; Family run restaurant. Large sundeck situated he decor and facilities are of a very high standard. Specialty is fish and seafood.
27. Gelateria Primavera
Corso Italia, 142; TEL#: 081 8073252; www.primaverasorrento.it; email@example.com
The creator and chief ice cream architect is Antonio Cafiero and his work attracts many Italian celebs. Gelateria Primavera, decorated with photographs of scantily clad VIPs, comes alive at night. Make ii an adventure of it… and try Parmigiano reggiano ice cream or opt for the traditional citrus-fruit mix, profumi di Sorrento.
28. Trattoria da Emilia (Sorrento)
(Tel # 081 807 2720)
Da ’Emilia is for distinctly unfrilly but tasty fish …one of several seafood places in the Marina Grande, Sorrento’s grubby but full-of-character fishing port. A casual little family-run trattoria; you can sit inside or pop across the street to grab a check-clothed table perched on a wooden deck overlooking the sea.
29. ‘O Parrucchiano (Sorrento)
Address: Corso Italia 71, Sorrento, 80067; TEL#: 081/8781321; Website: www.parrucchiano.com.
This restaurant is in a sprawling, multilevel, high-ceiling greenhouse and orchard, with tables and chairs set amid enough tropical greenery to fill a Victorian conservatory. The effect is enchantingly 19th century. Opened in 1868 by an ex-priest (‘o Parrucchiano means “the priest’s place” in the local dialect), La Favorita continues to serve classic Sorrentine cuisine. The shrimp baked in lemon leaves, cannelloni, homemade Sorrentine pasta, chocolate and hazelnut cake, and lemon profiteroles are all excellent, but they can’t compete with the unique decor.
30. Inn Bufalito (Sorrento)
ADDRESS: Vico I Fuoro, 21 – 80067 Sorrento (NA); TEL#: 081 3656975
HOURS: Open everyday from 12:00 to 24:00, except Tuesday.
Close to Excelsior Hotel (about 5 blocks). A small informal Mozzarella bar, aka , a joint with long wooden tables…focus is on fresh buffalo ricotta and mozzarella…a simple small place…dining trattoria style. Also serves pizza, pasta and panini. No reservations required. Written up and recommended by Rick Steves. Also has a store with variety of products from Campania region.
31. Antico Francischiello da Peppino (Sorrento)
Address: Via Partenope 27, halfway between Sant’ Agata and Massa Lubrense, TEL#: 081/533978;www.francischiello.com
Overlooking rows of olive trees that seem to run into the sea, this eatery is away from the throng, halfway between Sant’ Agata and Massa Lubrense. Two huge, beamed dining rooms with brick archways, old chandeliers, antique mirrored sideboards, hundreds of mounted plates, and tangerine tablecloths make for quite a sight. Specialties at this fourth-generation establishment include baccalà (cod) in olive oil with a sweet-and-sour vegetable dish in pear sauce. The towering dessert trolley is full of goodies, and you can taste as many as you like.
32. La Basilica (Sorrento)
Address: Via S. Antonino 28, Sorrento, 80067; TEL #: 081/8774790; www.ristorantelabasilica.com
Operated by the same owner as the Ristorante Museo Caruso, this budget alternative to its famous brother has no cover and no service charge, but offers the same extensive wine list (about 1,700 different labels) plus a bountiful choice of hearty Italian dishes. In a tiny alley between piazzas Tasso and St. Antonino, its main salon is decorated with modern paintings of an erupting Vesuvius. Watch the pizzaiolo baking pizza and bread for you in the wood oven; or, if you prefer a romantic setting, choose the smaller room on the opposite side of the road. Here—vertigo permitting!—you can dine on a tiny balcony overlooking the tortuous road that leads to the harbor. There is also outside seating for the less adventurous. Choose the strozzapreti (priest-chokers) pasta with scampi and cherry tomatoes or go for the fabulous rice cake on zucchini sauce.
33. Gelateria David (Sorrento)
Address: via Marziale, 19; Tel # 081 807 3649
This third generation ice cream business even offers classes in how to make homemade gelato. Specialties include “Sorrento Moon” with almond and lemons and Veneziana, a lemon, orange and Mandarin sorbet, in addition to traditional flavors.
34. Don Alfonso 1890 (Sant’ Agata)
Address: Corso Sant’ Agata 13, Sorrento, 80064; TEL #: 081/8780026; www.donalfonso.com
HOURS: June-Sept., no lunch and closed Mon.; Apr., May, and Oct. closed Mon. and Tues.; closed Nov.-Mar.
Campania’s most heralded restaurant is the domain of Alfonso Iaccarino: haute-hungry pilgrims come here to feast on culinary rarities, often centuries-old recipes given a unique spin. The bresaola of lamb with pine nuts and raisins is a recipe that dates to the Renaissance, and the cannoli stuffed with foie gras pays homage to the Neapolitan Bourbon court. Nearly everything is homegrown, and the wine cellar ranks among the finest in Europe. Those who want to make a night of it can stay in one of eight suites above the restaurant.